Leeks: Onion Flavor, Without the Onions (Published 2011) (2024)

Recently John Lyons, proprietor of the Woven Garden in Los Angeles and my gardening guru, brought over an armful of leeks that had just been harvested from his vegetable garden, their untrimmed greens streaming like long ribbons.

This was a luxury, and as I cooked them last week I wondered why leeks are so underused in this country. In Europe, they are as common in kitchens as carrots and turnips. In French cooking, rare is the soup or stew that does not feature a leek or two in its supporting cast of aromatics, not to mention the tarts, soups and starters in which it has the starring role.

If you are one of those people who can’t tolerate an abundance of onions in a dish, try leeks instead. They’re milder, even though they contain many of the sulfur compounds present in onions that are difficult for some people to digest. But these compounds, also found in green garlic, are the source of many health benefits. Leeks contain other important nutrients as well, like lutein and zeaxanthin, carotenoids that are being studied for their role in eye health. Leeks also are a good source of calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and vitamin K, and are a very good source of vitamin A.

Leeks should be trimmed and cleaned before you use them. As the green shoots push up from the ground, dirt can become lodged between their thin layers. The dark green part is tough, and while good for stocks, it doesn’t have the delicate flavor and texture of the white bulb or the tender light green part just above the bulb.

Cut away the dark green parts and the hairy root end, where most of the dirt is. Then cut the leek in half lengthwise and soak it in a bowl of water for about five minutes to loosen the dirt. Finally, run the leek under cold water, fanning the layers under the stream to wash away any lingering sand. Alternatively, you can trim and slice the leeks, soak the slices for five minutes, swish them around in the water, rinse again and drain on paper towels.

Stir-Fried Leeks With Amaranth and Green Garlic

In April, I found piles of baby leeks, red spring onions, amaranth and green garlic at one stand at the local farmers’ market. I bought some of each on impulse, and this dish is what became of them. Amaranth is a beautiful leafy green used in the cuisines of China and Mexico. You can find it at some Asian markets and farmers’ markets.